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Who this checklist is for
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The 7-step pre-quote checklist
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Step 1: Get your real square footage before you open a color book
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Step 2: Get a physical sample, and check it against a color reference
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Step 3: Ask what's NOT included before you ask what the price is
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Step 4: Read the warranty like a contract, because it is one
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Step 5: Confirm the material is actually in a Toronto warehouse
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Step 6: Lock down edge profile and cutout positions — the step most people skip
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Step 7: Put every verbal promise in a confirmation email
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Step 1: Get your real square footage before you open a color book
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Things I still get wrong, and what to watch for
Who this checklist is for
If you're ordering Hanstone quartz countertops in Toronto and you'd rather not discover a 30% surprise charge after the templating guy has already left, this is for you. Seven steps. Run them in order. None are optional.
Nine years handling countertop orders for renovation and fabrication clients. I've personally made — and written down — seven significant mistakes totaling roughly $4,300 in wasted budget. Now I maintain the checklist our team runs before any quote goes out. We've caught 47 potential errors with it in the past 18 months, and honestly, four or five of those would have cost real money.
Fair warning about how messy this actually looks in practice. Open my browser right now and you'll find three tabs of Hanstone color series, a folder of picasso tiles someone sent me as "inspiration" for a backsplash decision I'm not even making, a foil shaver review (don't ask), and a tab for how to screenshot on windows that a colleague pinged me about. That's a real procurement week. Half of it is noise. The checklist is how I filter the noise from the thing that's actually going to cost someone money.
The 7-step pre-quote checklist
Step 1: Get your real square footage before you open a color book
This is the step people skip because it's boring. Then they fall in love with a slab and start trying to make the budget work around the color.
In my first year (2017), I eyeballed a kitchen at "about 42 square feet." The fabricator's actual template came back at 58. That's not a rounding error — that's a different budget conversation entirely, and I'd already promised the client a number. Cost me $610 in absorbed difference plus a very uncomfortable phone call.
What to actually do:
- Measure every surface separately. L-shapes and peninsulas get their own line item.
- Ask the fabricator whether sink and cooktop cutouts are deducted from billable area. Many don't deduct them. That's not a scam, it's just how some shops price — but you need to know which shop you're dealing with.
- Add 10–15% for waste on anything with a strong vein pattern, because matching veins across a seam means cutting more material.
Only after that number exists do you go look at colors.
Step 2: Get a physical sample, and check it against a color reference
Website photos lie. Not on purpose, but they do.
Hanstone Serenity quartz, for example, reads warm off-white on most screens I've looked at. The physical sample in natural north light is noticeably cooler and greyer. Neither is wrong — screens just aren't calibrated for this, and neither are your eyes after eight hours of looking at slabs.
Industry standard color tolerance is Delta E < 2 for brand-critical colors. Delta E of 2–4 is noticeable to trained observers; above 4 is visible to most people (Reference: Pantone Color Matching System guidelines). Ask your supplier what tolerance they work to, and ask whether that applies to the sample they showed you or to the production batch. Those can differ.
One more: if the supplier sends sample photos by email, check the resolution. 300 DPI at final size is the commercial print standard, and anything meaningfully below that is being stretched by your display — you are not looking at the actual color, you're looking at an interpolation. I've had suppliers send garage-lit phone photos and call it a "color reference." It isn't.
Do this: sample on the wall, in daylight, next to your cabinet door. Not on a desk. Not under office fluorescents.
Step 3: Ask what's NOT included before you ask what the price is
I learned this one the expensive way, and it's the single most useful habit on this list.
The vendor who lists all fees upfront — even when the total looks higher than the guy next door — usually costs less in the end. That's not a slogan, it's arithmetic. The number that matters is the number on the final invoice, not the number on the first email.
In 2021 I approved what looked like a $3,200 quote. Final invoice: $4,180. The gap was made of things that were technically legitimate and technically disclosed in a PDF footer nobody reads — edge polishing, tear-out of the old top, second-floor carry, and a template fee that got charged twice.
Your pre-quote script, verbatim: "Before we talk price, can you send me a line-item breakdown that includes cutting, edge profile, cutouts, delivery, stairs or elevator, removal and disposal of the existing top, and tax? I need to compare apples to apples."
If a supplier won't itemize, that's your answer. Move on.
Step 4: Read the warranty like a contract, because it is one
"Lifetime warranty" on a countertop means roughly what "unlimited" means on a phone plan.
Three questions, in this order:
- Who performs the warranty work? Manufacturer or the installing dealer? In most cases it's the dealer. If that dealer closes or stops carrying the line, your warranty is now a phone number.
- What's actually covered? Stains, chips, cracks, delamination — each is a separate clause. Heat damage from a hot pan is usually excluded. That's standard across the industry, and it's why nobody should be telling you quartz is maintenance-free.
- Is it transferable? If you're a contractor installing for a client who might sell in five years, a non-transferable warranty is worth much less to them than it sounds.
I assumed "manufacturer warranty" meant I could go straight to the manufacturer after a chipped edge in 2022. I couldn't. Had to go through the original dealer, who had changed ownership twice. That took eleven weeks to resolve and I ate a $340 repair to just end it.
Step 5: Confirm the material is actually in a Toronto warehouse
There's a real difference between "in stock" and "available." One means it's in a building within driving distance. The other means a distributor in California has three slabs and could theoretically ship them.
That distinction is worth two to three weeks of schedule, minimum.
In Q1 2024, a batch I'd promised to a client as "two weeks out" had to be pulled from a US warehouse after the local allocation fell through. Three-week delay, and I spent it explaining myself to a contractor who had a crew standing around. Ask the specific question: "Which warehouse is the material sitting in right now, and can I see the batch or lot number?" A supplier who can answer in one sentence is a supplier who knows their inventory.
Step 6: Lock down edge profile and cutout positions — the step most people skip
This is the one. If you only remember one thing off this list, remember this step.
Edge profile and cutout placement barely come up in a standard quote conversation, and they're where the money actually hides.
An eased edge is usually included. A bullnose or a beveled edge adds per linear foot, and a kitchen with a peninsula and an island has a surprising amount of linear feet. Get the number before you approve anything.
Cutouts are worse. Sink cutout, cooktop cutout, faucet holes, outlet cutouts — each one has a position, and the position is on you unless you've written it down. In September 2022 I didn't confirm a faucet hole position on a 96-inch run. The template was built from my drawing, the hole got drilled, and it was two inches off from the sink center line. $890 to replace that section, plus a week of delay. The fabricator did exactly what I told them to do. That's the part that still stings.
Before template day, put these on one page and send it to the fabricator:
- Edge profile name, and the linear footage it applies to
- Every cutout, with dimensions and offset from a fixed reference point
- Sink model number and whether it's undermount or drop-in
- Where the seams will land — yes, ask. Seams in a veined pattern matter.
Step 7: Put every verbal promise in a confirmation email
Anything said on a phone call has a half-life of about four days.
I've had "that price includes install" evaporate between a Tuesday call and a Friday invoice. Not malice — just a different person answering the phone on Friday.
After every call, send a short recap: what was quoted, what was included, what was promised on timeline, and the date. Ask them to reply "confirmed." It takes ninety seconds and it has saved me twice.
Now — I'm not an installer and I'm not a fabricator. If your question is about adhesive chemistry or whether a specific slab can take a certain overhang without corbels, that's outside what I can speak to. Ask the fabricator, and get the answer in writing. What I can tell you is that the paperwork side is where I've lost almost all of my money, and it's the side you can actually control.
Things I still get wrong, and what to watch for
This list isn't a solved problem. It's a shorter list of problems.
Don't compare too many colors in one sitting. I've done six in an afternoon and walked out genuinely unable to tell two of them apart. Two or three per visit, in the same light, is the limit.
Don't use floor tile as a countertop reference. Backsplash and floor selections (this is where the picasso tiles folder keeps biting me) live in a different visual weight class than a slab. A pattern that reads subtle on a 3-inch tile sample becomes loud across a 9-foot island.
Date every quote. Quartz pricing moves. A number from six months ago is a number from six months ago. Prices below are for general reference only — actual prices vary by vendor, specifications, and time of order. Roughly speaking, installed Hanstone quartz countertops in the Toronto area ran somewhere around $55–95 per square foot as of April 2025, depending on color series, edge profile, and access (based on quotes I collected from three area fabricators; verify current rates before budgeting).
Don't ask me for IT help. Someone will inevitably ask how to screenshot on windows and send it to the fabricator. I don't know. Take a photo of the screen with your phone, it's fine, nobody has ever rejected a quote because the screenshot was a photo.
The checklist works because it forces the boring questions before the exciting decision. Color is the exciting decision. Square footage, exclusions, and cutout coordinates are the boring ones. The boring ones are where the money is.